Mt Whitney - The Trip 9/18/09 - 9/21/09

This was a great trip. This was my second and my wife’s' first trip up Mt. Whitney. Four days this time as opposed to one day last year. These are some of the OK and the tracking points that record most of the Mt. Whitney trip. We started at Mt. Whitney Portal and hiked 3.8 miles to Outpost Camp at 10,450' on 9/18 and stayed overnight. We hiked 2.2 miles to Trail Camp at 12,000' on 9/19 and stayed overnight. We hiked 4.2 miles to summit at 14,497' and returned 4.2 miles to Trail Camp on 9/20. We stayed overnight at Trail Camp. We left Trail Camp at 12,000' on 9/21 and hiked 6 miles back to Mt Whitney Portal at 8,350'. At the Portal we had beer and cheeseburgers. The refreshments were priceless.

Both day hiking and backpacking have their advantages and disadvantages. Both require good weather. A day hike is a twenty-one mile round trip, which requires conditioning, a 10-pound pack, a wag bag for human waste and good luck. Luck with the weather and luck with altitude sickness. If either of these factors turns bad you should stop or risk your life and the lives of your party if you continue. Multiple days with overnight stays requires the conditioning to carry a 35-45 pound pack and gear to limit exposure to weather. Staying overnight allows time to acclimatize, in our case two days. Backpacking also requires you to use bags for lots of things. You sleep in a bag. You may eat from a bag. Lastly (in the Whitney Zone) you are required by law to poop in a bag, which you carry with you the entire trip. Collecting and carrying your human waste may seem extreme, but this area issues permits by lottery to up to 100 day-hikers and 60 overnighters per day in the high season. At the higher elevations there is nothing but granite. As you may imagine, granite is hard to trench and absorbs nothing. Rainwater and snow melt runs off the granite into the lakes used by hikers for drinking water. This should provide a clear enough picture.

You always want what you can’t have! When day hiking, you would love to just stop walking, you can, but then again, if you stop too long too often, it ceases to be a day hike. While backpacking you would love to shed 35 of the 45 pounds and give your feet, knees, shoulders and hips a break. Making and breaking camp each day is time consuming and not something you look forward to in the freezing temperatures found at elevation in the late evening or early morning.

Slow and steady has been the key to our success. The experience has been awesome in either case. A trip up Mt. Whitney is a memory that will never fade. You get tired, you think about stopping, but these are just temporary conditions, all things must pass, and these conditions are no exception. The celebration really takes place after the event, after it is over and you are home and have time to reflect on the entire experience without wondering if you will be successful.

Due to the nature of trip and equipment used to record the locations I will provide a link below. This is the first time I have used this new feature offered by the SPOT group. The pictures are not of the same quality as those that I have previously posted, but time and space are becoming an issue.

http://www.spotadventures.com/trip/view?trip_id=177981

Mt Whitney - last minute preparation

9/15/09

Things are shaping up nicely. Trained with full packs Monday, today just the usual 4 mile circuit and no complaints. There was a 30% chance of snow on the summit yesterday, that has passed and judging from the off shore breeze today, a nice high is building in the interior. Grabbing some last minute beverage choices, tea, powdered Gatorade, etc. Have enough Shot Blocks left over from the Yosemite trip. Water is heavy, we will carry just enough water to make it to known water. We will use a high volume pump to filter all water. We are taking 15 degree down bags for this trip with liners that add 15 degrees. Zero degree capability should keep even Ann warm. It looks like I will hit the trail with approx 43-45 lbs. and Ann with approx 33-35 lbs, this includes water and is not bad for five days, I was very pleased when the packs came in at these weights.

The weather forecast looks great for our visit. Outpost Camp Friday: Sunny, with a high of 69. Outpost Camp Friday Night: Mostly clear, with a low around 49. Trail Camp Saturday: Sunny, with a high near 58. Trail Camp Saturday Night: Mostly clear, with a low around 42. Summit Day Sunday: Expecting a high near 51. Trail Camp Sunday Night: Clear, with a low around 42. Outpost Camp Monday: Sunny, with a high near 68. Outpost Camp Sunday Night: Mostly clear, with a low around 49. The Portal Tuesday with a high near 68.

I did mention forecast? We will be ready for heavy rain and moderate snow if required, it is September. Yes, I hate to carry that stuff, but I hate more to need it and be without. That is one of the drawbacks of an extended trip, a sleeping bag, a tent, food, stove, and gear for weather extremes. When training to carry all this gear, you soon realize that you are probably at the same fitness level you need for a one day summit. That was last year, this year we hope to bask in the serenity and beauty without a deadline. Five days is more then enough time for a leisurely ascent, but does expose us to four more days of weather, regardless of the forecast. I'm still excited, but feel a sense of calm this year as compared to last, I hope that is a good thing. Anxiety is the main reason many well planned strenuous hikes get off to poor starts. Trust your gear, trust your training, trust your partner and trust yourself. This is going to be fun!

Whitney are weather can be monitored at:

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/wps_weather.htm

The Mt Whitney web cam is working nicely and can be seen at:

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/webcam/whitney_L.jpg

You can follow our progress on the SPOT adventures page:

http://www.spotadventures.com/user/profile?user_id=47808

The High Sierra Camps 9/2/09

9/2/09

Off to Tuolumne Meadows Lodge

We were up early, ate a hearty breakfast and were on the trail by 830 am. This last leg of our journey back to where we had begun, would start at 10,300 feet and drop to 8,600 feet in 7 short miles. The last day of most great journeys is always a little melancholy. We were occupied with thoughts about the whole trip, leaving new friends and yes, planning the next trip. This trip was no exception. Through conversations with camp staff and other guests we knew that the Yosemite fire was still burning far from containment and that our route out of the park west on 120 was still closed to traffic. This meant we would have to leave the park using the east entrance over Tioga Pass, travel north on 395 to 108 and come back to the west across the Sonora Pass adding 2-3 hours to our return trip to Escalon. This fact occupied our minds on the march from Vogelsang down Rafferty Creek to Tuolumne Meadows. We enjoyed the views of Rafferty Peak and Johnson Peak to the west, but having no camera, we paused very little. We made it to the car as marked on my GPS by noon.

This trip was one of great memories and great scenery. I love the High Sierra's and always will. I would like to make my gratitude known to the people that originally built the trails, those who built the camps and those who now maintain these jewels of the Sierras. I can't think of a more strenuous job then carving trails through high granite passes. I was pleased that in over 58 miles of hiking I found only one double A battery and one already disintegrating Kleenex. Good job people! Pack it in / pack it out works.

For those interested in the High Sierra Camps I have provided a link on this page. The slots are awarded by lottery as I may have mentioned earlier. You may get in late by looking for openings or cancellations on their web site. The options are endless. You do not have to do a loop. You can visit one camp for one night or multiple camps for multiple nights. I met a couple that was staying for 16 nights. You can stay at the backpacker’s camp, located at each camp and just pay for meals. And yes, you can still backpack the entire area without winning the lottery and still see the same sights; you will just have to carry your own sleeping bag, tent, cooking gear and food. I was warned that the park now requires backpackers to keep their packs in their tents, out of the view of hungry bears. I have not yet verified this rule / request.

You can see more details of this entire trip at this link.

http://www.spotadventures.com/trip/view?trip_id=178651

To book a trip or find out about the camps use this link.

http://www.yosemitepark.com/Accomodations_HighSierraCamps.aspx

The High Sierra Camps 9/1/09

9/1/09

Off to Vogelsang HSC

Vogelsang is the highest of the High Sierra Camps at 10,300 feet. There are basically two routes that can be taken to reach the camp. The shortest is via Flecther Creek at just 7.6 miles and the longest is via Lewis Creek at 8.4 miles. We had from the very beginning planned to take the shortest route, but past visitors and camp staff urged us to take the mile longer and higher route due to the views afforded by the elevation. The higher route would allow us view Bernice Lake, Gallison Lake Meadow, Gallison Lake, Vogelsang Pass and lastly all the 12,000 foot peaks to the northeast. We didn't actually make the decision to take the high route until leaving camp and speaking with one of the mule team drivers as we left. Her last bit of encouragement was all it took and we had our plan.

We had already been the first .8 of a mile yesterday on our 6 mile round trip to Washburn Lake, so that was familiar territory. When we reached the junction that separates the two routes it was clear that the high route was named appropriately. It immediately headed steeply up the mountain and continued on for some time. Within the first couple of switchbacks I spotted deer just above and ahead of Ann. This was the second time I had spotted deer on the trip. I imagine deer had spotted us many times before, but had failed to tell us. This ascent finally topped out affording an outstanding view of Merced Lake. Now we headed directly into Lewis Creek canyon. The canyon was deep carved granite, heavily forested in areas, and the grade was manageable. We stopped near the summit where the meadow that feeds Lewis Creek opens up to a wide open view of the surrounding mountains and of course Vogelsang Pass. We ate our sack lunches while contemplating the climb over Vogelsang.

Lunch was good, we felt great, and had plenty of water. Water had never become a concern on this trip due to the abundant streams we had encountered. Even in August there is adequate water in the High Sierra's. We crossed the meadow leading to the trail up to the pass. We scurried across a couple moderate water crossings and hit the mountainside at our usual pace. Yes it was steep, never dangerous and the views were out of this world. We stopped a couple times, once to listen to a small babble of fresh water pouring from the rock just feet from the trail on this steep mountainside. The trail is deceptive; it starts below a peak that is much higher then the actual pass. If you approach under the premise that the trail continues to the peak you will quickly be defeated. Once you have gained an elevation equal to that of the actual pass you traverse south west for a long distance and emerge at the much welcome opening known as Vogelsang Pass to a beautiful meadow on the northwest side of the summit. It was here that we met Rick and James. We found them sitting at the summit, taking in the view. We learned that they were Cal Poly grads and spoke with them for some time before they headed off to the camp, which was on the far side of the lake in the distance. It was all down hill from this point forward and as a matter of fact for the bulk of the remaining trip.

Leaving Merced Lake. These guys are a great way to travel, you watch the sights, they watch the trail, maybe someday we'll try it.

We have already gained enough elevation to view Merced Lake in the distance.

The cross roads. Today we take the high road. Vogelsang Pass here we come.

Check the sign just to be sure.

Ann with a deer proceeding her up the switchbacks.

I can only call this a sheet falls, nearing the meadow where the real climbing starts.

Nice place for lunch, to bad we had already eaten, we crossed the two logs on the lower right.

That is where we are headed. Must go through the pass to reach the camp.

Last of the comfortable meadow hiking.

We start our ascent of Vogelsang Pass.

Ann making her way upward.

We are near the top now. Can you see the small lake in the meadow off in the distance?

A victory photo from Vogelsang Pass.

A victory photo from Vogelsang Pass.

As you crest the pass, the other side opens to a beautiful meadow.

Ann was right. Had I been right we would still be climbing.

Arriving at Vogelsang HSC

We followed the well-defined trail along the high meadow skirting Vogelsang Lake. The lake was amazingly clear and the bottom was clearly visible in many locations. The lake held a small rock island that just called for a high mountain swim. This was a swim that I may regret not taking, but I didn't want to test my shock tolerance at 10,300 feet. We entered the camp around 3 pm. It was beautiful and nestled right at the foot of 11,407 foot Fletcher Peak. There were just a few tent cabins and a stream went within 8 feet of our cabin #2. This camp, like all the camps except Merced Lake had little wood stoves in each cabin. At this elevation I checked the wood supply and Ann checked the blankets. It was a three-blanket camp, three wool blankets and a comforter on each bunk; it would be cool this evening. We immediately explored the area taking pictures until my last battery called it quits. The call for hot drinks soon came and all guests filtered in, dressed a little more warmly then they had in the past. The smell of dinner permeated the mountain air. Tonight would be a choice of ravioli stuffed with beef or mushroom. The evening was delightful as we ate well and shared our experiences of the day. Virtually all of those in camp tonight were leaving the next day. We wished our friends well and prepared for a chilly night and an early departure to Tuolumne Meadows in the morning.

The meadow trail leads to Vogelsang Lake, the camp is on the far side.

If you enlarge this photo, you should be able to see some tent cabins on the far shore.

Ann crosses her last water hazard!

The Vogelsang High Sierra Camp and the last of my camera battery!

The High Sierra Camps 8/31/09

8/31/09

Second day at Merced Lake HSC

Merced Camp was big, we had the tent cabin to ourselves for two nights. After a leisurely breakfast and completing the chores of laundry we pondered our options. There were many places to explore and the lake itself was inviting. We decided to take a walk up the canyon following the headwaters that fill Merced Lake. The name of the trail was Washburn Lake, it was just three short miles, but we had elected to travel only to the ranger station at .8 miles and return. It is like buried treasure in the Sierra's, once you have seen a little you have to see more, there is no going back. Ann said I tricked her, but her resistance was feeble. We enjoyed a very slow stroll up to Washburn Lake, taking in all the sights along the way. The forest floor was covered with pinecones, there were small picture perfect trees amongst the giants, it was perfect. Water falls and colorful mineral outcropping all along the trail. Hungry squirrels waiting for the sound of a green pinecone to hit the ground. When a cone fell as one did on many occasions, it was carved to the core in minutes as the squirrel collected the fresh pine nuts. A sheer ledge cut into the granite guarded the entrance to Washburn Lake. We sat on the leeward shore enjoying the view and the solitude until a chilly breeze that whipped up small wind chop drove us back toward Merced Lake and the sunny confines of camp. We were hungry, the trip in to Washburn had taken about two and a half hours, the trip out took just an hour and a half. We were hungry!

Upon arriving at camp we ate the sack lunches that would have been perfect at Washburn Lake. What we had intended to be a stroll had turned into a day hike. We had taken nothing but our hiking poles. This is perhaps why day hikers are rescued more often then overnighters in the wilderness. The day hiker never plans to spend the night, run out of food, water, or suffer nighttime temperature extremes. What you plan for and what actually happens can quickly become the difference in a one way or a round trip ticket. We were merely inconvenienced. We were lucky.

Ann and I had finished our sack lunches and were hanging around the dinning tent enjoying the afternoon sun. I had just poured my third glass of lemonade when some type of a commotion broke out. I was totally disinterested, but Ann kept calling me over to see the commotion. I followed her to the outside edge of the eastern row of tents just in time to see the cute little bottom of a black bear jump a log and turn to see if his antagonist was still in pursuit. The camp manager was not far behind yelling for him to "get out, go on, get moving". Black bears are common in Yosemite; they are just not seen that often. To see one in the wild was terrific. They will usually always back down to aggression and kill rarely. A bear has never killed a human in Yosemite, but a buck has killed a young boy. The deer’s hove puncturing the boys chest and damaging his heart. Deer are far more dangerous then bear due to their numbers and their frequent contact with humans. All food and toiletries are to be stored in food lockers; anything with a scent the bear may find inviting should be locked up. I was told that backpackers are now asked to keep their packs inside their tents to break the pack/food association that some bears still maintain.

Well needless to say the bear sighting was a great topic at dinner that evening. We had a fine chicken feast, played cards and retired early. Thoughts of our ascent to Vogelsang Pass and maybe a little wondering if our furry buddy would return in search of a midnight snack were the last of the night.

Relaxing around camp, don't forget to check out the small things.

Just a few pedals short of a full flower.

Have you ever waited for an ant to stop moving, even for just a moment?

A teenager standing with adults.

They sent this little guy out to clean up all the pinecones.

Ann's eye for berries.

Thistle's don't have to always have to be a nuisance!

Do you think she thinks we are on a little stroll?

Washburn Lake, beautiful but windy on this afternoon.

The High Sierra Camps 8/30/09

8/30/09

Off to Merced Lake HSC

Today's hike was just as anticipated the last but for a different reason, other then changes in scenery, it would be mostly down hill, but ten miles in length. We would depart the 9,400 foot elevation of Sunrise traveling north in the opposite direction of our destination. We would continue north, turning east prior to reaching Columbia Finger and make our way up through the pass between Columbia Finger and the peak just to it's south. From here we would make a slow and steady decent south to Merced Lake at 7,150 feet. We would travel down the granite slab canyon confining Cathedral Fork stream and then follow Echo Creek from where Cathedral Fork converges. We would follow Echo Creek until it converges with the Merced River and then follow the Merced River to the shores of Merced Lake. At this elevation, in this geography, a good deal of the time the creeks are running through sold granite flues that have been carved over thousands of years. The water is crystal clear and very cold. The views are like few others on this planet. We stopped for lunch about half way to our destination. We refilled our camelback bladders and soaked our feet just down stream of a bridged water crossing. The lower elevation and the bright midday sun reflecting off the granite made for a very warm afternoon.

View north of Columbia Finger, as we make our way into Cathedral Canyon, I think. Please comment if my description is incorrect.

Echo Peaks? Not sure of this one either. Please comment if my description is incorrect.

Pumping water into my 100 oz camelback.

The Merced River pours down the canyon, Merced Lake is a bit further up the canyon.

The trail is more granite than it is soil, we must be getting close.

Just another falls as we ascend into the canyon.

At reduced flow, this granite reflector oven looked like a great place for a dip.

This was second of these little guys I saw on the trail since leaving May Lake, this one guarding the trail into Merced Lake camp.

Arriving at Merced Lake HSC

Prior to reaching the Merced River, the hike through Echo valley had been flat and dusty. The kind of easy hiking that you enjoy, but hope will not continue forever. This pesky monotony is know as last mile of the day syndrome if you are familiar with backpacking. Merced Lake Camp was the first of the High Sierra Camps built and a welcome site. It was originally used to house mounted Calvary, it is a large flat symmetrical rectangle on the eastern shore of the lake. The granite canyon approaching the river's beginning at Merced Lake is a virtual water park of pools and slides. There were many people frolicking in the water as the lake came into view. Merced is a big lake bordered on the north and south by granite peaks. This camp is a hold point for people whose next destination maybe is at capacity for a day or two. Most of the folks we met were here for two nights. We too were here for two nights and thought it would be a pleasant rest before making our last climb to Vogelsang Pass. By the time we had partaken in the endless supply of cool lemonade offered to guests at each camp, laid out our gear, showered and taken a short rest, it was time for hot drinks. We discussed the dusty trail in and what to do on our "day off". We did plan on doing laundry the next morning, from there it was yet undecided. Dinner this evening was the usual selection of fresh soup and salad, with turkey as the main course. The cooking staff usually comes out and tells the guests about themselves, but tonight they decided to play their instruments and sing a song. Their enthusiasm, free spirits, camaraderie, and attitude took me immediately back to the 60's. I was pleased to find that at most of the camps, the young staff had either graduated or were in the process of finishing college. They hadn't just dropped out; they had taken an opportunity and seized it. You only get to do something’s once. It was good to see them enjoying their youth before jumping into the treadmill.

This was a welcoming sight! Can't wait to see the lake.

Now that is a High Sierra lake. Merced at last.

Entering camp, registration and dining at the far end in the center of the photo.

The High Sierra Camps 8/29/09

8/29/09

Off to Sunrise HSC

The hike to Sunrise was much anticipated. We would travel eight miles, dropping abruptly from 9,270 feet at May Lake to around 8,200 feet at Tenaya Lake only to climb abruptly back up to Sunrise Camp at 9,400 feet. We would have views of Tenaya Lake, Tresidder Peak, Sunrise Mt. and the Sunrise Lakes along the way. Up hill and down hill is what High Sierra hiking and backpacking is all about. Everyone develops his or her own style and pace. Ann and I try to maintain a pace that we can sustain for hours with few short breaks. We stay in our aerobic zone, always able to supply enough oxygen to sustain the effort, not to suffer the lactic acid burns that accompany restarting after repeated stops. We move slowly enough to take in the sights and at the same time cover the miles necessary to reach the goal. This works for us. Everyone who backpacks must discover what works for them and stick to it. It is the classic tortoise and the hare. This said, the climb to Sunrise required a few trips to that little well in the mind that replenishes, refreshes and reassures your purpose. This hike would help prepare us for the last uphill leg of the High Sierra Loop.

Ann starting out around 830 in the morning.

Heading down to Tenaya Lake before we can head up to Sunrise.

Don't come any closer, find your own rock!

One of the Sunrise Lakes, none visable from the actual Sunrise Camp.

Arriving at Sunrise HSC

Sunrise is not one of those camps that you can see from any distance. It just kind of pops out of the forest as you descend on Long Meadow, sitting at the eastern base of the mountain forming the western boundary of the meadow. There are few sights comparable. Flat lush green for miles interrupted by wandering streams, something from a 60's poster. The edge of the camp facing the meadow is almost one continuous granite boulder, affording many perches to absorb the beauty. This camp is the most scattered of the five camps. It has hot showers and composting toilets. Tent cabins are staggered along the trail as you approach the main dining and cooking facility. The afternoon and evening light is spectacular. Due to the limited space, this evening we will share a six-person tent cabin with two other couples. We shower and enjoy the afternoon views as we wait for the call to hot drinks. Dinner this evening is a surprise; steak was not really anticipated by this first time visitor to the camps. What a meal! Following a wonderful soup and fresh salad, the steak was presented on a bed of polenta and fresh vegetables. Conversation was lively, life was good. We learned one of our cabin mate couples, Jonathan and Robyn would be departing the next day and that the other couple, Bob and Brenda would be continuing the journey on an identical schedule. Candles were snuffed and all drifted off, only to be occasionally interrupted by the heavy snoring of tired hikers.

This cabins sleeps 6, we took the middle, not to close to the stove or the door.

Sunrise is right on the edge of Long Meadow.

It was cool in the late afternoon, you can see some meandering in the meadow.

Looking north to our path in the morning.

Nothing like a High Sierra meadow.

New friends, all happy after a great steak dinner. Rose, Ann, Katheryn, Becky and Jill.

The other end of the table, Steve and Rose liked the steak too.

Becky displays the desert before it disappears.